Christine Phung, Leonard creative director, said that “Our girl goes to the jungle, but she gets lost,” said the designer backstage in Paris’s Grand Palais. “And she enjoys it!” 
Building off of her Resort debut, Phung’s collection was flora-rich and often striking—rife with lamé, embroideries, and the house’s signature Mikado silk jersey. To start, she found an archived palm-frond print that she had remastered and digitally altered. The result, which manifested mainly in blue with splotches of color tie-dyeing the leaves, felt throwback in composition but modern in its splashiness. Those palms found themselves on everything from a sash-belted jumpsuit to a maxi dress with a metal collar neckline to a double-breasted silk pajama blazer. If they had airs of retro Emilio Pucci maximalism, it was forgivable—Leonard Paris, in its heyday, adhered to a similar aesthetic.
Phung still needs to focus, though, is attracting a younger pack of eyes. The best landed with the show’s opening look: It had baseball-striped accent cuffs, pretty crystal embellishments on the front, and those graphic palms on the back.
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