It certainly would not be the first time Marc Jacobs divided opinion in his quarter century as a clothing designer, and it would be foolish to bet against him in the future at doing otherwise. As recently as a month ago, Jacobs dismissed speculation over his own future at his signature label, insisting the show in September would go on. Early Wednesday evening the show very much went on at the Seventh Regiment Armory. Set designer Stefan Beckman shuffled the deckchairs (steel folding chairs actually) of last season, arranging them around the perimeter of the expansive Drill Hall instead of the down the center. The runway program eschewed musical accompaniment apart from a swelling operatic score at the finale, borrowed from the 1981 French thriller Diva. The staging alone of this show could well intensify scrutiny of those said to be “more concerned,” but whatever the case may be, Jacobs is doing it his own way.
By his way, picture oversize florals, pantsuits, bright colors, head wraps by millinery maestro Stephen Jones, all pursuit of distant shores, real and imagined. “The collection is the re-imagining of seasons past somewhere beyond the urban landscape of New York City.” On the night, Selena Forrest, Aiden Curtiss, Estella Brons, and Binx all featured in the lineup. That wraps up Next News coverage in New York. Next up: London. Credits include: Client, Marc Jacobs; Collection, Women’s Ready-To-Wear Spring 2018; Clothing design, Marc Jacobs; Hair, Guido Palau; Makeup, Diane Kendal using Marc Jacobs Beauty; Manicure, Jin Soon Choi; Millinery, Stephen Jones; Staging, Stefan Beckman; Music direction, Steve Mackey; Casting, Anita Bitton at The Establishment; Video, Damien Neva at Next Management.